By: Ali Elizabeth Turner
West Athens native Jimmy McMeans has a grandson who could not pronounce any version there was of Grandpa, Pappaw, or Papa, but instead called Jimmy by his own unique affectionate name, which was “Baw Baw.” That name has stuck until today; and so with a loving tradition that involves family, time, love, and secret ingredients, Baw Baw’s BBQ has opened in a former church on South Madison in Athens right near the Farmer’s Market. The church was built in the mid-‘40s, and Jimmy, along with Audrey, his wife of 18 years, told me that often people will come in to not only sample their wares, but tell them the history of the church and Athens “back in the day.”
Speaking of “back in the day,” Jimmy didn’t start to experiment with barbeque until he was 28 or 29, which was about 30 years ago, and what got him started was the fact that nobody made things with the exact flavor he was looking for. That included the banana (“nanner”) puddin’, along with the ‘tater salad. He built a metal pit in his back yard, and while he doesn’t use it any more, he just can’t bring himself to remove it. What he does use is a custom smoker, and if you are anywhere near where all the streets converge in a star over Athens Creek at the bottom of the hill, you can smell something that is truly mouthwatering. You will probably smell Baw Baw’s before you see it, and both times I have eaten there, it has been truly scrumptious.
Jimmy grew up farming in West Limestone, and did that for years. He worked for a construction business in Huntsville for 5 years, but told me he “didn’t like it.” BBQ was a long-standing “side hustle,” and he would cook for family, churches, ball teams, weddings, and the like; it kept him busy and he perfected his recipes. He used to do food for weddings as a gift. As long as people paid for the food, the labor was a gift. Although those days are long gone, Jimmy was glad that he could be of help to start young couples off with food that was cooked with love and time.
Jimmy and Audrey opened up Baw Baw’s close to Thanksgiving of 2025, and Jimmy says that everything turned out much better than what he expected. There is knotty pine on the west wall and old signs add to the homey décor. The ceramic Texaco sign is from his grandfather’s farm and had laid over the top of the feed barrel for the hogs. Jimmy is in the process of having a monument restored that had been a part of the original church building so the history of the place can be preserved. Business has been great, word has gotten around, and several times they have sold out of everything. For now they are closed on Tuesdays, but are considering changing their day off once the Tuesday Famer’s Market starts up. Hours are 11 a.m.-7 p.m., and on Sundays, 11 a.m.-5 p.m.
Jimmy and Audrey told me they put their heart and soul into the place, and it shows. Jimmy gets to Baw Baw’s around 3 or 4 a.m. to start the day. It takes about 18 to 20 hours to do the meat to get it “just right.” Jimmy told me, “We make everything fresh every day.” The menu is simple and authentic. There is chicken, pulled pork, bologna, ribs, and brisket for the meats. The sides are ‘tater salad, baked beans, and slaw. Desserts are ‘nanner puddin’ or fried pies. And, beverages are referred to as “belly washers.”
The McMeans are quick to tell you that their family has been a huge help, with everything from re-modeling the church to food prep to building the smoker to working at Baw Baw’s. Their son Greyson works there part time, and nephew Conner, who is a Fiddler’s Convention champion fiddler works there as well. Brandy Handley is the only non-family member working at Baw Baw’s, and is described as a “Godsend.” You can tell people enjoy working as well as eating there, and veterans and first responders get a discount.
While they do not do cater delivery, they will do cooking for special events, as long as people are willing to come there to pick up the food.
When I asked Jimmy about his secret to success, he said, “Me and Audrey are a team.” He went on to add, “It ain’t just me, and it ain’t just her.” I asked him what makes Baw Baw’s so good, and he said simply, “Time and love. You can’t hurry it.” Come taste and see what he’s talking about. Your tummy and taste buds will thank you.
By: Ali Elizabeth Turner
